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Thread: Idle Issues

  1. #1
    Not A DSM verified Feedback Score 3 (100%) Polygon's Avatar
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    Idle Issues

    So, I've got an idle issue that's cropped up recently. The cold idle seems to be fine. However, the warm idle is a little rough. It also will come close to stalling when turning the steering wheel when not moving at time.

    Here's what's been done recently.

    EGR Delete
    New Intake Manifold
    New Valve Cover
    Plugs & Wires
    New Y-Pipe
    New Evo BOV
    New Rear Turbo Inlet Seal
    New PCV
    New Booster Check Valve
    Fixed Vac Leaks (Can't seem to find any more)
    New Air Filter

    So, does anyone have any ideas for what check next?

  2. #2
    Thermal Engineer- Mmbr Since:8/2005 verified Feedback Score 0 Alex3000gt's Avatar
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    Excuse my ignorance of our modded turbo cars. Do you still have an IAC? On my NA this was not working properly and caused my car to studder under load - like when your power steering pump pressurizes the lines.

    '92 3000GT Base ATX converted to MTX - Parted Out
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    Not A DSM verified Feedback Score 3 (100%) Polygon's Avatar
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    Yep, mine is still on there. I've been wondering if I pissed something off on the TB when I changed the manifold. Maybe I'll trying pulling it off and cleaning it.

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    Thermal Engineer- Mmbr Since:8/2005 verified Feedback Score 0 Alex3000gt's Avatar
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    Yeah, cleaning mine with throttle cleaner did the trick. Also plug it in and see if it starts making noise when your car is on, the little motor in it should be moving. Mine also makes noise when the key is simply in the "ON" position, but who knows if yours will too.

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    XLR8TOR Feedback Score 0
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    When you removed the ERG system did you do the 10 ohm resister trick. It is my understanding that the connector that used to plug into the EGR valve needs to have a 10 ohm resistor fastened between the two wires on the old unused connector so that the ECU still thinks that the EGR valve is there.

    Not sure what it does to let the ECU know but it should be done and it's easy enough.

  6. #6
    and a 95 too! Feedback Score 0 deemo99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxClass View Post
    When you removed the ERG system did you do the 10 ohm resister trick. It is my understanding that the connector that used to plug into the EGR valve needs to have a 10 ohm resistor fastened between the two wires on the old unused connector so that the ECU still thinks that the EGR valve is there.

    Not sure what it does to let the ECU know but it should be done and it's easy enough.
    Hopefully someone else will chime in, but I thought the resistor was only to keep from getting a CEL? If this is for your 91 I don't know that the resistor is required. I removed my EGR on the 95, no resistor, no CEL.

  7. #7
    rawr. verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) Atrosity's Avatar
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    Check your o2 Sensors? Hook a datalogger and see what it reads.

    When turning the steering wheel the car will increase the fuel/rpm a little and it may stall out.
    vroom vroom i drive a 93 toyota mr2.

    https://car.social

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    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 blackrob's Avatar
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    I have a very similar problem. I thought it might be the EGR since the CEL gave me a code 43, but I replaced the solenoid to clear the light. The warm idle is still rough until I start going down the road. Any ideas anyone?
    Moving on to reality. Sold my 3KGT, and now I am selling off my parts.
    Click here to see my parts for sale

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    Forum User verified
    Feedback Score 13 (100%) Austin@STM's Avatar
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    Is the idle just a little low?

    If thats the problem then try turning out you BISS screw a little to raise up the idle a little.

    -Ricer Evo 8: 8.75 @ 166 Best MPH of 167. Quickest 4G63 Powered Evo in The US!!!
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  10. #10
    Stealth owner since '91 Feedback Score 0 Steve '92ES's Avatar
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    Couple thoughts:

    1) Did you use an OEM PCV valve, and is it the correct one? Many of the aftermarket ones are either crap or incorrectly list the same valve for SOHC, DOHC, and TT. There are 3 different OEM parts for these. I've used Purolator on my NAs but OEM is the only way to go for turbo.

    2) Ohm test your IAC as soon as possible. Do it twice, both stone cold and warm. A bad IAC can destroy your ECU so get that out of the way before moving on to anything else.

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