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Thread: Ball Joints

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    Forum User Feedback Score 0 thestealth's Avatar
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    Ball Joints

    Common knowledge I'm sure, but just adding the knowledge base here.

    You cannot get ball joints for a 3S at an auto parts store. It is a dealer only item that includes the control arm. I've heard (but never personally priced) that they run upwards of $300.

    When your ball joints go bad, you can pick one up at most chain auto parts stores for 20-35 dollars. I picked up one today at O'Reilly for $22 and some change. The joint you need is a MOOG p# K9855. If the store doesn't carry MOOG, I would guess they could cross reference the p# with whatever supplier they favor. It is the ball joint for a 1995-98 Hyundai Sonata (any model).

    I did one today in about 2 hours, working steady, but not hurrying. I'll do my best to describe the process I used.
    1. Jack up car and support with jack stands.
    2. Remove wheel, brake caliper and caliper bracket. You could remove the rotor and shield if you wish, but I did not need too.
    3. Unbolt sway bar end link.
    4. Loosen nut on ball joint as far as you can. The CV joint is in the way to remove it.
    5. Break loose ball joint from hub with a pickle fork.
    6. Finish removing nut from ball joint. You may have to use vice grips or something similar to keep the joint from turning.
    7. I used a ratchet strap to pull the strut assembly towards the back of the car to give me room to work on the ball joint. You'll obviously not want to get carried away with this step.
    8. I did not have an actual ball joint press, however, it would make the job easier. What I did have was a 9" C-Clamp and some big sockets. Using the 32mm socket (we all have for the crown nuts on our half shafts) on the top and a 2" socket on the underside of the control arm. I tightened the C-clamp down as much as possible, putting a lot of pressure on the joint. I then used my BFH to whack the side of the control arm. The ball joint popped right out.
    9. Putting in the new joint was basically are reverse process of #8. Big socket on top, smaller one on bottom. Using a C-clamp, you really have to work at making sure everything is lined up true.
    10. Slip on circlip. A quality pair of snap ring pliers would probably make this job a lot easier, but alas, my cheapo ones were not up to the task. I got one end of the clip started in the groove, then used some vice grips to hold it in place. I then used a screw driver to work it on the rest of the way. Once it was "started", I lightly tapped it fully into place with a hammer and punch.
    11. Grease boot installation. I modified a large cheapo socket I had to tamp the boot over the ball joint. I put a jack stand under the control arm for support when tapping the boot into place.
    12. Put the ball joint back into the hub and tighten the nut down.
    13. Put everything else back together, end link, caliper bracket, pads, caliper, etc.etc.

    Sorry I didn't take any pictures of the process, but when I'm working a project I don't think of picto-documenting things as I go along.
    Last edited by thestealth; 09-24-2010 at 09:29 PM.

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    Sounds like what I did. I rented a ball joint press though. I modified a piece of PVC pipe to tap the grease boot down, worked wonderfully.
    R135
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    owner since 2004 Feedback Score 0 colt45 gto's Avatar
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    good post great write up. no pics needed with this info!
    3si is dead long live 3sgto.org

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    Forum User supporter Feedback Score 1 (100%) Rocket's Avatar
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    How do we get this added to the How To section? This would be a good one for that IMO

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    Administrator Feedback Score 3 (100%) Alan92RTTT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocket View Post
    How do we get this added to the How To section? This would be a good one for that IMO
    Someone needs to let me know about it.

    Oh wait...

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