Thread: Project WDE Talon

actually tyler, that is called a babbited bearing surface, you prolly should not let that go its going to create problems down the road.

The camshaft is trash IMO, and the head is going to need to be repaired or replaced.

Everyone else is echoing those sentiments.

Probably going to get a used head that is unmolested. Getting this thing decked would probably cost more than I can get a core for.

With that kind of damage though, shouldn't I drop the pan and inspect the crank bearings as well?

Probably a good idea. I wouldn't be surprised if there was no damage, but I wouldn't be surprised if they were damaged. All of that material went somewhere, probably the pan considering the head drains straight down, so it should be filtered but why take the risk when it's so easy to pull the rod caps on a 4g63.

Originally Posted by BigTyla

Some progress today.

Got my valve spring compressor in. It's nice! Glad I bought it. It makes the job 100x easier.

Took off the two valve stem seals on the exhaust side of the #1 piston. Check this out:



Hard to tell in the above pic, but the valve stem seal I pulled has an orifice that is between 1-2mm larger than the new valve stem seals I got. It appears we have officially confirmed our problem! Still have to get to the other 14.

Found this too:





I'm not sure what to make this. It doesn't appear to be a game-changer. The scarring on the camshaft is minimal. I can't see this being an issue, can you?

Ha... Undoubtedly aftermarket VSS.

I've seen cam journals that looked like that before. The engine was undoubtedly run low on oil or that oil passage was clogged. Does the damaged cam spin as freely as the normal one? You could try using a very low grit flapper wheel or something, but metal will be everywhere... I wasn't willing to try anything like that on the car I saw with similar issues. It runs fine, but I recommended he replace the head.

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

Ha... Undoubtedly aftermarket VSS.

I've seen cam journals that looked like that before. The engine was undoubtedly run low on oil or that oil passage was clogged. Does the damaged cam spin as freely as the normal one? You could try using a very low grit flapper wheel or something, but metal will be everywhere... I wasn't willing to try anything like that on the car I saw with similar issues. It runs fine, but I recommended he replace the head.

The damaged cam spins just as freely. I've also run this engine at idle and revved it quite a bit. It almost looks like someone tried to fill the area and grind it down but did a piss-poor job. It looks like the fill job made the oil passage exit slightly smaller and asymmetric.

some machine shops will weld it and fix it , wish i wouldnt have sold my old head or i woulda sent it to ya it was in good shape just got a great deal on a sbr head. i would recomend pulling the pan putting a bucket under it and flushing the passages , pull the oil filter off and do the same. , its nice to have a flush gun if you dont have one already, and i prefer mineral spirits the higher flamability the better (dries with less residue )

Worked a few hours today getting stuff ready to remove the head. Taking the intake manifold off this car is a huge pain in the ass, but after removing a lot of stuff I was able to get the job done.

Check out the space in that engine bay!



Notice something missing? I'll give you a hint...



Why no cruise control? Because racecar.



Here's the 1G manifold. Looks like someone decided to try their hand at porting.

^Hahaha tried.

It's not the worst port job I've ever seen... A local guy bought a turbo that some idiot ported so thin I don't know how it lasted more than sitting there at idle.